Exploring Shakespeare and the classics in Italy

July 2024 · 4 minute read

Our readers share tales of their rambles around the world.

Who: Phyllis Peterson of Reston, Va., (the author) and her sister, Patricia Johnston, of Acton, Mass.

Where, when, why: Cities in Italy: Verona, Mantua, Padua, Bologna, Perugia, Rome, Ostia. When: June 15-30. Why: To celebrate my 80th birthday, spend time with my 77-year-old sister and to attend a classics symposium.

Highlights and high points: There were so many highlights! Verona was our first stop and where we spent most of our first week. We attended a three-day symposium titled "The Age of Augustus" that my sister, who is a classics professor, helped organize.

It was attended by approximately 25 scholars from all over the world and I felt privileged to be included in such a special group. We sat in on many interesting presentations and took a tour of Verona, the setting for three of Shakespeare’s plays: “Romeo and Juliet,” “Two Gentlemen of Verona” and “The Taming of the Shrew.” A special treat was when one of the symposium participants, who had grown up in Verona and had attended the university, gave us a personal tour.

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After leaving Verona, my sister and I traveled to Padua, well known as the home of St. Anthony of Padua. The Basilica of St. Anthony was very impressive. The Chapel of the Reliquaries contains St. Anthony’s tongue. St. Anthony is very important to me because I pray to him when I lose things — and he usually comes through!

Our next destination was Bologna. The high point here was meeting the daughter of a friend and her three grown children. They were in Italy laying their father’s ashes to rest. After Bologna, we drove to Perugia. What a lovely hillside town! We explored the main square, the Prior’s Palace and the National Gallery of Umbria. It was worth dodging cars to see the Etruscan Arch. Next it was on to Rome and Ostia Antica. What a treat Ostia was! Not only was the cooler weather welcome after Rome’s heat, but it was such an interesting place. We could have spent days there. Unfortunately, we just had one. We were leaving the next day, and Ostia was near the airport.

Cultural connection or disconnect: While in the vicinity of Verona several members of the group, including my sister and me, took a side trip to Mantua. This is a very special place for those studying the classics because it is near the birthplace of Virgil, author of "The Aeneid" and other works. After touring the Ducal Palace, we were invited to the palace of the Virgilian Academy. On the ground floor is the Scientific Theater, so called because it is attached to the science and literature department of the academy. The beautiful theater was built in 1769 and it is said that Mozart played there. We got to walk on the same stage!

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Biggest laugh or cry: Our drive from Perugia to Rome started out beautifully. It was a perfect day with marvelous scenery. Then it happened — a flat tire! We didn't know how to change a tire, and we didn't have a phone, so our only recourse was to flag down a car for help. There we were, two elderly ladies flagging down cars. Two cars stopped. In one was a middle-aged couple on their way to visit relatives. The gentleman changed our tire and would accept nothing but our thanks in return.

How unexpected: When we finally arrived in Rome, at about 9 p.m., we got lost. (This wasn't the first time. We also got lost in Padua and Bologna. We had researched directions but found it very hard to follow the street signs, which changed every block or so.) My sister asked several people, in Italian, for help, to no avail. Finally, she approached a young man with a cellphone. After saying, "Scusi" and making her plea in Italian, the young man said, "Can we speak English?" Then he asked her where she was from. When she said Boston, he said "I just spent two years there." What are the chances of that happening? I think he was an angel sent to help two old ladies.

Fondest memento or memory: My fondest memory is of the Italian people who were so helpful to us. It seemed that no matter whom we asked they were always willing to take time with us. Italy has many treasures, but its biggest treasure is its people.

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